Civil War Uniforms: 9 Universal Tips on HOW TO Choose Accurate yet Inexpensive Buttons
By Paula and Coach McCoach
1.Get yourself some good buttons. Stay away from plastic and modern buttons. Go with glass, bone, shell, metal, porcelain, 2-hole cat's eye or Mother of Pearl.
2. Metal buttons are authentic but they have the potential to rust and stain your fabric. Some of the sutlers that sell fabric and sewing items have buttons. Or I have a ton of buttons I might be talked into parting with. Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org or visit http://www.civilwaruniforms.net
3.Variety of period buttons including Goodyear and natural substances. Many of these buttons are good for vests.
4.Buttons can also be found at flea markets, antique stores, in old button baskets, tins or jars. Frequently, you can buy a whole jar of buttons for $3 - check out the buttons in it, and if you find a substantial amount of antique buttons, it certainly is worth it.
5.Sometimes the jar is as valuable as the buttons! I have found jars full of buttons with a hundred dollar button in it. Small items like buttons can make a huge difference and increase the value of your shirt, jacket, pants, etc.
6.Try to get all brass buttons not plated. Waterbury is good. Original buttons are a bit pricey but not out of the question. If you are getting the U.S. Eagle buttons, sutlers have them.
7.Stay away from the ones that are plated. I personally just use coin buttons. If you are doing a state regiment, you may want to go with state seal buttons, but I feel that limits your impression.
8. "I buttons are good for a generic look. For late war buttons, you can use go the Tate Script "I which were coming in later in the war.
9.U.S. buttons can go both ways: U.S. or Confederate. It would not be unusual to see an Eagle button on a Confederate uniform.
By Paula and Coach McCoach http://www.civilwaruniforms.net
About The Author
Paula and Coach McCoach
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